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Guinea Pig Care Basics

A healthy, happy guinea pig is such a wonderful pet. They are social animals who live on average from 4 - 8 years. They play and run and make the most adorable noises. When our customers ask how they can give their piggy the best quality of life, here's what we tell them.


Health Concerns

Take all possible symptoms of a health problem very seriously. Piggies are prey animals and therefore naturally conceal illness until the problem is quite severe. For this reason, many piggy people recommend weighing your piggy weekly to be aware of weight fluctuations. You should definitely be familiar with your piggy’s routine and be on the lookout for any changes.

A healthy piggy has clear, bright eyes, and clean ears, nose and feet. Lumps, bumps, crusties, scabs, flakes, hair loss, and other questionable looking stuff are generally symptoms of a health problem. Don’t take a wait-and-see approach, get your piggy to a vet who is familiar with treating guinea pigs if you think something might be going on. Here are a few things you should do to help ensure your guinea pig’s health.

  • Guinea Pigs are suceptable to scurvy, and they must get 20 – 50 mg of vitamin C from their food or vitamin pills daily.
  • Guinea Pigs can devlop painful foot conditions if they live in a small area or on a hard surface or wire cage floor. Piggies should have plenty of room and a soft surface to live on.
  • Guinea pigs are social animals and need social interaction. A lonely and bored piggy is likely to be an unhealthy piggy. Ideally, guinea pigs should interact regularly with other guinea pigs, but if that isn’t possible, you need to spend time with your piggy every day.
  • And of course, read the Diet and Nutrition section of this article.

Diet and Nutrition
  • Guinea pigs are herbivores. Do not give your piggy meats or dairy products.
  • Guinea pigs do not make their own vitamin C and need to receive 20 to 50 mg daily.
  • Choose a simple vitamin C tab like Oxbow’s Vitamin C.
  • Don’t give your piggy sugary yogurt drops with vitamin C. (It’s like eating vitamin enriched candy).
  • Vitamin C or other vitamin drops should not be added to the water. Water can degrade the vitamin, it is hard to regulate how much of the vitamin your piggy is getting, and some piggies may not like the taste and drink little or no water.
  • GPs are designed to munch on grass all day long. To maintain digestive health, they should always be munching on high fiber, low protein, low carb, low fat food. (Hay, hay, and more hay).
  • Feed an unlimited amount of timothy, orchard grass, or oat hay. Give richer alfalfa hay to young, growing piggies and as a treat to adults.
  • Leave hay with your piggy for a day or two before tossing it. Your piggy will naturally eat the ‘yummiest’ bits first, but they need to eat the blander, higher-fiber stems too.
  • Give your adult piggy about 1/4 cup of high quality hay pellets each day. Do not feed your GP a food mix with dried fruits, nuts, or seeds. Even if the overall mix is nutritionally balanced & complete (unlikely), they will naturally eat the high fat and carb bits of the mix first, and that is no good for their high-fiber designed digestive systems.
  • Give your GP fresh veggies everyday. A cup or so of leafy greens and a few colorful colorful veggies should do the trick.
  • Fruits and veggies like corn and carrots that are high in carbohydrates should be given as occasional treats only.
  • GPs are natural foragers, so they are well suited for eating fresh grass and dandelion weeds that you might find in your yard, (if you don’t use any gardening chemicals that is).
  • Be kind to your piggies tummy: Give small amounts of gas producing cruciferous veggies such as broccoli, cauliflower, and collard greens.

Grooming
Guinea pigs are pretty low maintenance when it comes to grooming needs.
  • Guinea pig's teeth grow throughout their life and need to be worn down to maintain a healthy length. Unless their teeth grow in at an unusual angle, (malocclusion), the normal hay chewing and toy gnawing that piggies do will keep their teeth at a healthy length.
  • Their little toenails are always growing too. Clipping a small amount off your piggy's nails once a week will keep them in nice shape.
  • If your GP already has long nails, don’t try to cut off all the length at once – you’ll cut into the quick which is painful for your piggy, (not to mention a bloody mess). Just snip a bit off the end of the nail once or twice a week. The quick will recede farther back into the nail as you continue to shorten the length.
  • Generally piggies keep themselves clean, but a gentle brushing on a regular basis will help keep their coat really nice.

Cage Requirements
See Small Animal Cages

Piggies need space, but they are not fantastic climbers. That means you’ll need to devote a generous amount of floor space to your pals. Because they require so much space, finding affordable and appropriate manufactured cages can be down right impossible. Most piggy people make their own cages from Cubes & Coroplast, (those build-your-own wire storage cubes and a big sheet of corrugated plastic). These materials are inexpensive and generally easy to find. For information on making your own C&C cage, check out GuineaPigCages.com. There is absolutely no better resource for GP housing. We do sell and assemble C&C cages here at the store.

In your piggies big ol’ cage, you should have

Providing Physical and Mental Stimulation
We do not sell or recommend clear plastic exercise balls. Your piggy can get easily get hurt and will probably be quite stressed out by the experience.

We do not recommend running wheels for guinea pigs. Even with a solid surface wheel, too many piggies get hurt on running wheels.

Letting your piggy have some out of cage time in a safe area in the best way for her to get some exercise.
  • Barricade off a safe, (no electrical cords, no cleaning or other chemicals, no heaters, protected from hot / cold / weather), area with an opened up cardboard box, exercise pen, connected cage grids, or whatever you can come up with. Remember that pigs like to seek shelter, so you might want to block off any areas that it may be difficult to retrieve your pal from.
  • Tile and hardwood floors are easier to clean after out of cage time, but many piggies don’t like these surfaces. Put an old sheet over a carpeted area to make clean up easy.
  • Make sure to put out hay and water and a safe hidey spot for your piggy when out of the cage.
  • If your pig doesn’t seem to want to play out of his cage, just keep at it. Eventually your pal should feel safe in their big, open play area.

Have fun with your Piggy!
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